As we continue our quest for space optimization, we discovered some wasted space in the cabinet below the sink. Only the top half of the total cabinet space was usable as a cabinet when we bought it. The lower half of the space was closed off with a panel, in order to hide the plumbing connections and electrical runs.
The area below the sink was opened for a previous project where I found myself tracking down a water leak. The space was closed off with a ¼ inch plywood panel to protect the water lines, drain, and some electrical feeds. When repairing the leak, I realized this area still had quite a bit of usable space, if I made a few modifications.
My plan was to install a sub-floor in the cabinet and close off the areas with the water and electrical feeds using floating walls. I started by adding a grid of boards to the bottom of the cabinet space to support the new sub-floor and allow for some clearance to route the wire. I cut a paper pattern for the usable floor area and used that to cut a sheet of ¼ inch plywood. The cabinet will see a lot of use, so I lined these parts with woodgrain shelf paper for durability and to match the existing wood.
The floating walls were cut from the same paneling as the sub-floor. The walls are attached to the cabinet face and the new floor of the cabinet, and the job is done.
This new area more than doubled our usable space under the sink!
Shortly after we moved in, we started noticing water on the ground under the dump valve for the black tank and one of the gray tanks. Thankfully, the water appeared to be either fresh water or gray water! But it was a concern and needed fixing.
Our unit has an all-weather sealed underbelly, so the water leaking could have been coming from any number of places and traveling along the underbelly to the drain valve area. We were really concerned, because water can do a lot of damage when the leaks are not addressed quickly. During the course of troubleshooting, we noticed the leak was the worst when the bathroom gray tank was close to full.
I made a small incision in the corrugated plastic liner covering the underbelly to dry it out and get a better look at the problem. I could see the bottom of the gray tank, but it still wasn’t clear where the water was coming from.
I moved indoors and opened the two access panels in the bathroom, one under the shower and another under the sink. Under the sink, I opened the lower access panel in the sink cabinet and found a large space with the water feed, the drain plumbing, and several electrical lines. (The lighter colored boards in the floor area of the lower cabinet were added for another project I started shortly after fixing the leak. Stay tuned for a future post about that.)
The black sink drain pipe ran straight down through an opening in the floor and directly into the top of the grey tank. I got a nice look at this area when the tank was full and there was no indication of water leaking in this area. The water in the park tends to be hard so a chalky residue would have been present if there was a history of leaks in that area.
The shower also has a drain that leads to the grey tank that is accessible through a second small access panel under the shower drain pan.
When I pulled this panel off the cutout area behind it was barely large enough for my arm. I wanted to get a better look so I used my cell phone camera as a periscope to see what there was to see.
When I first moved the phone into the opening a very frightening picture appeared: a large hairy spider appeared on the screen that appeared to be the size of a dinner plate! Once I adjusted the zoom on the camera, I realized we were not being invaded by giant spiders. After recovering my dignity and rehoming the tiny arachnid who was as surprised by the intrusion as I was, I tried again.
If you lack the square footage for elaborate cat furniture, there are plenty of ways to help your cat branch out (and up), and make you feel like he’s got more room than you.
Tip #1: Think vertically! This is really the best way to maximize a cat’s space. Adding shelves, or rearranging stuff on existing shelves to make room for cats, is like a cat magnet for most cats. Keep in mind the size and age of your cats: smaller or older cats may need additional shelves or a chair moved so they can get on and off the shelf safely. Make sure the shelves can hold your cats’ weight and the force of their jump, to avoid unnecessary injuries or repairs.
Tip #2: Think multi-purpose! Dedicated cat furniture is beautiful and helps your cat feel like she really owns her space. But sometimes you just don’t have the floor space for it. Adding something like a Clamp-on Desk Shelf to an existing desk or table will let you keep working while your cat supervises from above. If you already have a desk with a shelf, consider clearing off some space and adding an inbox for your cat. Sometimes an empty box lid is all that’s needed to entice a cat to use a new space, or you can try something much cozier, like a MidWest Deluxe Bolster Pet Bed.
Tip #3: Maximize space! If you’ve got extra leg room under your desk, or under a table where you spend a lot of time working, your cat may want to join you (and get in your way). Try tucking a cozy place to call their own near your feet (but not so near where you might kick them!), like the Zen Den Cat Hideout. We like the Zen Den because the top comes off for easy access in case of emergencies, and it folds flat for travel or storage. It’s also great for cats who prefer to be closer to the ground. Or keep it simple and cheap: keep a couple fleece blankets on hand, fold one for underneath a favorite chair or table, and rotate them out on laundry day.
Two of our cats are brothers we rescued at 5 weeks old. They’re now 5 years old, and still a handful. They hate being in hard-sided carriers with a passion. But on our last pre-RV relocation with a car full of stuff and 5 cats, they destroyed their soft-sided carrier before we even left our neighborhood. We ended up stopping at a pet store on our way out of town to buy two hard-sided carriers to contain them for the 600-mile trip.
But we’re trying to make RV life easier on them, and we’re confident we can get them comfortable in the truck if we’re patient and creative. So a couple weeks ago, we bought a Pet Gear Soft Crate for the boys and another for our two girls (who are perfect angels on the road), and set it up for the boys to get used to having it around.
Last weekend we changed parking spots in the same park. (To be closer to the pool!) It was a good test-run for the new crates– and the boys did less damage than we expected, but they still put holes in the screen. We really want to make these soft carriers work because they’re more comfortable for the cats, so I wanted to repair the damage.
We are HUGE fans of Pet Screen, because it renders screens just about indestructible when it comes to cats and dogs. We replaced all the screens in our RV with Pet Screen before we ever moved the cats in– not only does it keep them safe, but it’s so easy to get tiny tears in standard screens even without pets, that this stuff keeps the bugs out and keeps the screens looking nicer longer.
Since I had some left over from the RV screen install, I thought I’d try to replace the two torn parts of our new cat carrier. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy this stuff is to work with, and how well my sewing machine handled it.
Finding gluten-free food on the road can be tough. This is not a post about finding gluten-free restaurants, or about all the magical gluten-free dining experiences a traveler with celiac disease might find if only they were brave enough or bold enough.
I am a super sensitive celiac. I am more sensitive than the average celiac, and it takes me longer to bounce back than many of my celiac peers. Once, I was glutened so badly by a careless restaurant that it took me over a year to feel “normal” again.
Consequently, we don’t eat out much.
So this is a post about where to find gluten-free groceries while traveling.
Even before RV life, when we traveled, we brought a suitcase for our clothes and a suitcase for our food. (The food suitcase was usually bigger.) RV travel has made eating on the road MUCH easier and simpler, but there’s a lot of overlap between how we handled food on the road with a car compared to how we handle food on the road in an RV.
BYOS: Bring your own Stuff.
What gadgets and condiments do you use every day? What’s a must-have for your suitcase or RV kitchen? Here’s our list of essentials:
We loved our Aroma Rice Cooker for years, until it finally stopped working at a nice old age. Now we can’t live without our 3 Quart Instant Pot.
Bamboo Cooking Utensils, which are super durable but inexpensive, so it’s not so heartbreaking if one is lost in transit.
Lightweight cutting board(s) are handy for food prep on any suspicious surface (like a hotel table or campground picnic table).
A paring knife and a serrated knife
Utensils: Now that we’re full-time RVers, we get to bring our metal utensils with us. But when car-tripping and nowadays when we want to save water and time, we always keep some kind of biodegradable cutlery on hand.
If you know there will be a grocery store or farmers market where you can safely purchase foods to enjoy raw or cook in your trusty rice cooker, but you might not be able to find your favorite barbecue sauce or sriracha– bring it along, and bring more than you think you’ll need. You might even make some new friends because you’ve got the best condiments at the campground!… [ Click here to read the rest of this post. ] “Gluten-Free Travel”
The basic concept of calculating towing capacity isn’t exactly complicated: your vehicle needs to be capable of towing whatever it is you’re trying to tow, and you should never go over that limit because it’s dangerous (and potentially deadly). But actually calculating towing capacity and understanding the details to be sure you’re within safety limits gets a bit complex.
It’s important to remember you can never have too much truck, when it comes to towing.
Doing the calculations for towing capacity involves math, but it’s straightforward: some addition and subtraction and comparing two numbers. The tricky part is finding the data you need because there’s no single source for all things weight-related, and the only way to be sure you’re under capacity is by visiting a weigh station to have your vehicle and RV weighed separately.
Here are the important terms and definitions:
Vehicle curb weight, or dry weight: The weight of your vehicle (the one doing the towing) completely empty. This can be found on a sticker inside the door frame, in the owner’s manual, or elsewhere from the manufacturer, but it’s often an impractical measurement: it’s the weight with no driver, no passengers, no cargo, no extra features, maybe even an empty gas tank. The only way to get an accurate actual curb weight for your specific vehicle is to take it to a weigh station and weigh it with no one and nothing in it.
GVWR, or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating: The maximum amount your vehicle can safely weigh, including all passengers, cargo, and the weight of the trailer hitch (see below). This is provided by the manufacturer on a door sticker, owner’s manual, or other manufacturer’s publication.
GCVWR, or Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating: The maximum weight of the combination of vehicle and trailer, including all passengers, cargo, water and waste tanks, propane, food, and toys. This is provided by the vehicle’s manufacturer.
GCVW, or Gross Combined Vehicle Weight: The actual weight of the vehicle plus trailer, including all passengers, cargo, water and waste tanks, propane, food, and toys. The only way to get an accurate GCVW is by taking your vehicle and trailer to a weigh station like a CAT Scale or Escapees SmartWeigh.
Trailer Dry Weight: The weight of of a completely empty trailer. Manufacturers’ definitions of “empty” can vary widely, and may or may not include propane, water, waste, or extra features. This number can be found on a sticker from the manufacturer, but the only way to get an accurate dry weight is to take your trailer to a weigh station and weigh it empty.
Trailer GVWR, or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating: The maximum amount your trailer can weigh, including all cargo, full water and waste tanks, and propane. This is provided by the manufacturer on a sticker or other manufacturer publication.
With food allergies and severe celiac disease, we don’t go to restaurants very often. Going out to eat requires a great deal of preliminary research and phone calls to restaurant managers, and even then it’s a gamble whether or not a business is going to be “gluten-free enough” for someone like me. Getting contaminated by a careless restaurant can cause me a health setback that will require weeks or even months of recovery.
To play it safe, we cook at home almost exclusively, and have a great time doing it. One of the greatest things about taking our kitchen on the road is that we always have our favorite gadgets and snacks, and we know they will always be safe and clean. We think our Keystone Laredo 335MK has an enormous kitchen, with more fridge and counter space than my first apartment. It’s actually enjoyable to cook in it!
Consequently, we tend to get more excited about a popular grocery store than a popular restaurant. Exploring new grocery stores can be exciting, but it’s also time consuming when I should be working, and it’s occasionally a gluten contamination risk when the store has a big, active bakery department.
So I have to tell you why I am in love with Shipt!
Shipt is a grocery delivery service, and it’s great because it makes grocery shopping quick and easy, saving me a ton of time. It’s a membership service where orders over $35 are delivered for free. My shoppers communicate with me every step of the way via text message, making sure that any substitutions are safe for me and checking in to make sure I didn’t forget anything before they check out. With Shipt, I can do my grocery shopping while I work from home, or while I’m taking the cat for a walk.
I think anyone with disabilities or chronic illnesses who finds grocery shopping an exhausting and taxing errand can benefit from Shipt, too. I’ve used other grocery delivery services in the past, like Instacart and Safeway’s own delivery service, and while they’ll almost always work in a pinch, I find the markup on Shipt items to be more reasonable than other apps, and I think its app is a bit more user-friendly than others.
Since participating stores aren’t limited to grocery stores, I’ve even been able to replace broken phone chargers and headsets in a pinch, and we get cat food delivered all the time!
Don’t get me wrong– no service is perfect. I’ve had a few orders delayed because there were no shoppers available for my preferred time slot. I’ve also had shoppers be less-than-careful with delicate produce, or bring me the gluteny version of a gluten-free item. But these incidents have been extremely rare, and Shipt is always quick to make it right by offering a refund for the incorrect items. Fortunately, I can count the number of problems I’ve had on one hand, and they’ve all been easily resolved.
There’s such a wealth of information about RVing and long-term camping online. We are constantly researching.
To my fellow RVers, I encourage you to do what you can to keep your sites online, even after you lose interest in blogging, quit RVing, or switch to posting solely on YouTube or other “siloed” service. (A siloed service is one which can only be used or accessed through a specific app or other limiting factor, like Facebook, Twitter, and yes, even YouTube, where posts can vanish at the whims of the services’ owners.)
Many sites fade away. There are still some decades-old gems out there though.
One of my favorites is Two Penny Travels’s computer setup from 1999. As I write this post from a 4-pound laptop tethered to a smartphone hotspot (at speeds of 45mbps up and 23mbps down), I think about Sam and Alice (of Two Penny Travels) and the evolution of technology. I’m grateful their site is still online to educate RV newbies like us about where we’ve come from and, by extension, where we’re going.
But not all posts are outdated. So-called “evergreen” posts never age: we will always benefit from stories like these:
If you think your site (or sites you find) might not last for the long-term, you might consider submitting it for archiving with the Internet Archive’s Wayback Machine (paste the URL for each page you’d like to archive into the “save page now” section, which is currently located at the bottom-left area of the page).
These older sites are also the ephemera of our collective RV culture. They are our stories and our journeys. They should be cherished and preserved.
A co-op (or coop) as in a “cooperatively owned entity” is one in which everyone involved in the entity is also an owner. Companies can be coops (like REI, Ocean Spray, and Welch’s), but so can neighbors who have a collective stake in their communities and who want to build a better neighborhood.
Residents of mobile home parks have been forming coops over the years, inspired by heartbreaking and heartwarming stories about landlords who raise lot rents so high that people are left homeless, and neighbors banding together to collectively purchase and run their parks. Just last week, VTDigger published a story about 4 mobile home parks converted into resident-owned coops. This 1986 LA Times article about a group of tenants who banded together to buy their home from their landlords is especially empowering, because their actions created a whole new category of government loans.
Mobile homes (and by extension, many RVs– with the exception of $250,000+ class A’s) are often the last option for affordable home ownership for people from all walks of life. But while we might own our RV or mobile home, we’re still at the mercy of landlords: park owners and managers who can raise rates however they like. There are many wonderful and reputable park owners out there, but there are enough exceptions to the rule to create a crisis that needs addressing.
Forming a coop provides stability to residents in traditionally unstable housing situations. Read about the residents of Duvall Riverside Village, who formed their coop in 2012 after years of concern over the long-term instability of their park.
Power in Numbers
According to a 2017 article from Nonprofit Quarterly, “An estimated 17.5 million Americans live in manufactured housing, or about 9 million households. By contrast, only 1.1 million households in the United States are in public housing, and only about 4.5 million households receive any form of government housing subsidy at all. In other words, manufactured housing as a sector is twice as large as all federal housing assistance programs combined.”
There is power in numbers. Banding together and forming a coop is a powerful way to control not only the cost of housing, but what is done with the funds. The National Association for Cooperative Housing has a great summary of cooperative principles and values:
caring for others
Why an RV coop?
RV coops are a great option for RVers who are interested in having a “home base,” with the freedom to travel when they wish. When you’re traveling, some parks will allow you the option of adding your space to the rental pool, as a means of generating income for the park, and decreasing your yearly financial dues as a coop member.
When we moved into our RV, we knew the cats would have a tougher time adjusting than we would. Their whole world (their indoor home) was squished down to less than 300 square feet, with all kinds of new smells and sounds. We’ve done a lot to “cattify” our RV, like adding scratching posts to the slide-out trim (blog posts forthcoming!) and low-profile cat condos handmade by David. But it’s not the same as being able to really stretch their legs and get some exercise.
When we were still living in a “sticks and bricks” house, we started practicing walking our cats using a Kitty Holster cat harness. We have four (yes, four!) cats, although at the time we had five, and the fifth was a professional traveler. Sadly we had to say goodbye to her about a year ago. Of the other four, two are little old ladies who would prefer to nap and watch the birds from the windows, one is a scaredy cat who WANTS to go out, but can’t bring himself to enjoy it yet, and our main handful is Tycho, an energetic ball of fluff who’s really taken a liking to the harness.
We’ve tried several harnesses over the years, and like the Kitty Holster best of all. It seems the most secure (hardest to escape), and the large surface area of the holster has a sort of calming effect on them (kind of like the Thundershirt, with less restriction and more movement). The Kitty Holster website has a ton of reviews, adorable pictures, and helpful information.
We started out by getting them used to the sound of the velcro of the harness. It’s a substantial amount of very secure velcro, so it’s kind of a scary noise for most cats. We also laid the harnesses flat on the floor, leaving treats on/around the harness, so they’d associate it with good things.
After a few days of this, we tried putting a harness on a cat, and taking it off almost instantly. More treats! And snuggles! And praise!
Every step of the process needs to be positive for the cat, or they may never like the idea of walking on a leash. And patience is key: if they seem overwhelmed or upset, put the harness away and try again later. You may even have to start from step one (not fearing the harness’s presence) if kitty’s just too stressed.
When you’re ready to go outside, think of a phrase you can use to signal to your cat that it’s time go out and when it’s time to go in. We kept it simple: “wanna go outside?” and “time to go in!” You may want to learn from our mistake and not use something as ordinary as “wanna go outside” because now whenever the humans wanna go outside, we have to rephrase it so Tycho doesn’t hear and go running to the door.